1. What is a chemical peel? The types, costs and risks

A chemical peel is a technique used to improve and smooth the texture of the skin. Facial skin is mostly treated, and scarring can be improved. Chemical peels are intended to remove the outermost layers of the skin. To accomplish this task, the chosen peel solution induces a controlled injury to the skin. Resulting wound healing processes begin to regenerate new tissues.The dead skin eventually peels off. The regenerated skin is usually smoother and less wrinkled than the old skin. Some types of chemical peels can be purchased and administered without a medical license, however people are advised to seek professional help from a dermatologist or plastic surgeon on a specific type of chemical peel before a procedure is performed.

2. The 3 basic types of chemical peels are:
Light Chemical Peel
A light or superficial chemical peel removes the outer layer of your skin. This layer is called the epidermis. This peel is perfect for treating fine wrinkles, acne, uneven skin tone and dryness. You can have a light chemical peel as often as every two to five weeks depending on what you want to achieve.

Medium Chemical Peel

This type of chemical peel removes dead skin cells from the epidermis and from sections of the upper part of the middle layer of your skin. This layer is called the dermis. A medium depth chemical peel can also treat wrinkles, acne scars and uneven skin tone. You might repeat one of these after three to nine months to maintain your results.

Deep Chemical Peel
A deep chemical peel removes dead skin cells from the epidermis, and from the mid to lower layer of your dermis. If you have deep wrinkles, scars or precancerous growths, a deep chemical peel could be the right course of action for you. You can only have a deep chemical peel once. This is because they affect the deeper layers of the skin, and the results are more permanent.

3. Should I go for a chemical peel, or avoid one?

This will depend on the type of problem being treated. This is why it’s always best to have a consultation with an expert first, as they will be able to advise you as to if it’s the right treatment for you. If not, they can advise an alternative that will tackle the problems you are looking to address . Are there any reasons why I might not be able to have a chemical peel?
There are a few reasons why going for a chemical peel might not be the perfect solution to your skin concerns. It is best not to go for a chemical peel if you have any of the following:

Active herpes simplex or warts in the area to be treated
A chemical peel could cause herpetic activation, so it’s best to avoid if you have either herpes simplex or warts.

Wounded or sunburned skin in the area to be treated

As the old and dead skin will be lifted from your face during a chemical peel, if the skin is already damaged, you run the risk of facial scarring or burns. It is not recommended to have a chemical peel just before or just after excessive sun exposure. So if a chemical peel is something you are looking to try, avoid booking around the time you go on your holidays.

Currently pregnant or breastfeeding
pregnant woman

Pregnant or breastfeeding women should avoid a chemical peel. Salicylic acid is a chemical used in some chemical peels and it can be harmful during pregnancy. As there is a change salicylic acid may soak into your skin, it’s best to avoid this treatment until you have had your baby and are no longer breastfeeding.

History of radiation therapy in the area to be treated
Similarly, with wounded or sunburned skin, your skin could be compromised or damaged if treated with radiation so it is best to avoid a chemical peel in this circumstance.


A history of autoimmune diseases or those with weakened immune systems
As a chemical peel is revealing lower layers of your skin and inducing healing, people with weakened immune systems and diseases such as lupus or rheumatoid arthritis should avoid a chemical peel. This is because there is a risk of infection, although small, may be more of a risk if you have an autoimmune disorder or disease. It also avoids any unnecessary risk of infection, as an alternative treatment may be available to you for your skin concerns.

Vitiligo
If you have vitiligo, any type of skin trauma may initiate the spread of your condition. For this reason, it is worth consulting with your skincare expert to find out if you can have a chemical peel, or if a safer alternative may be available to treat your skin concern.

4. What chemicals are in a chemical peel?

Young beautiful woman in the beauty salon on the face treatment

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Peels (AHA)

Sometimes referred to as fruit acid peels, AHA peels are water-soluble peels that tend to be superficial, though they do come in varying strengths. The most commonly used AHA is glycolic acid, but other forms include lactic, citric, and mandelic acids.

“I find AHA peels to be very beneficial in photoaging, discoloration like melasma, as well as for fine lines and wrinkles,” explains Dr. George. “Additionally, AHAs have been shown to increase collagen production, so I tend to pick these types of peels for my patients who are more concerned about texture and lines.”

Regardless of what peel you get, you’ll find that preparation and application is pretty similar across the board. First, your skin is cleansed, then it’s quickly swabbed with acetone or alcohol to remove any lingering oil, which could interfere with the acid. Lastly, the peel is applied in even layers to cover the entire treatment area. (You may feel a tingling or burning sensation as the acids work their way into your skin, but not all peels cause discomfort or irritation.) That’s it!

“If using glycolic acid, the peel needs to be neutralized with water or a neutralizing solution to avoid deeper penetration,” notes Dr. George. You’ll be done with your treatment quite quickly, and after a few minutes, your provider will likely slick a gentle, chemical-free sunscreen onto your skin and send you on your way. As with any chemical peel, AHA treatments can increase your sensitivity to the sun, so be religious about applying SPF in the days after your appointment (and every day, right?).

All peels have possible side effects, but again, AHA peels tend to be more superficial, so you can expect minimal downtime, including some facial redness immediately post-treatment and possible mild peeling over the following week. Consult with your dermatologist, who can help you find the right treatment for your needs.

Beta Hydroxy Acid Peels (BHA)

The most common beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid, which is an oil-soluble ingredient that penetrates pores more effectively than AHAs. Dr. George says, “BHA peels are also usually superficial peels.”

Since BHAs are oil-soluble, and because salicylic acid is a known acne-buster, this type of peel is best for those with acne-prone or oily skin. Dr. George says she tends to use them more on younger patients, who deal with these skin issues more frequently. Preparation and application are the same as above, though BHAs do not require neutralization.

A Jessner Peel is a medium peel that often falls into the BHA category, though it does use a combination of AHA (lactic acid), BHA (salicylic acid), and resorcinol (a chemical compound). Consider it a slightly more aggressive, one-two-three punch against acne and dull skin. The salicylic acid helps break down sebum, dirt, and gunk that clog pores and lead to blackheads and acne; lactic acid exfoliates, brightens, and refines skin texture, and resorcinol targets acne specifically.

A word of praise in particular for BHA peels: they’re less likely to cause irritation than AHA peels. That’s because salicylic acid is a known anti-inflammatory — it’s related to aspirin, after all! — and can help soothe skin as it treats it. That said, consult with your dermatologist before booking a BHA peel to ensure it’s the right treatment for you.

Trichloroacetic Acid Peels (TCA)

 

Trichloroacetic acid is a much stronger peeling agent that results in a medium-depth peel. While you can find gentle, easy-to-use versions of AHA and BHA peels at Sephora®, a TCA peel should always be administered in a clinical setting.

“Since these peels are more aggressive, they can be useful for pigment abnormalities, fine lines, and texture, and can have some benefit for deeper lines, as well,” says Dr. George. “These are for the patient that is motivated to see results more quickly and has the time to peel for seven to 10 days following their treatment.” On that note, a TCA peel does cause that post-treatment redness and sensitivity à la Samantha Jones. Your skin will likely feel tight and tender in the days that follow, and a constant flurry of dead skin cells will flutter off your face for the next week to week and a half.

 

Face Skin Cleaning

Phenol Peels

Phenol peels are the most aggressive form of chemical peels, using carbolic acid to penetrate into the deep layers of the dermis. Given their potency, they’re reserved only for patients who need a very deep treatment. That includes those with very deep and/or numerous wrinkles, scarring, severe photodamage, and even people who have skin abnormalities as a result of precancerous growths. If, like us, you are excited by the potential of such a powerful treatment, hold your horses: the average person really only needs a superficial or medium peel to get the skin-smoothing, radiance-revealing results they want.

If your dermatologist has declared you a candidate for a phenol peel, know that the application process is largely the same, but there’s one more step before the actual treatment: you’ll likely receive a sedative and/or anesthetic to help reduce pain and discomfort. (We told you this procedure was aggressive!) Once applied, the phenol peel is allowed to set, and then it is neutralized with water. Afterward, a coat of thick ointment or medicated gauze is applied to help soothe and protect your skin

5. Is Chemical Peel Safe?

When performed under a board-certified dermatologist, licensed healthcare provider, or trained skincare specialist, chemical peels are extremely safe. However, you must follow pre and post peel instructions as suggested by your doctor.

6. What To Expect Before, During And After A Chemical Peel?

Before

  • Consult your dermatologist before going for a chemical peel. Your doctor may not recommend it if you have taken medicines like isotretinoin for acne, have abnormal skin pigmentation or are prone to frequent cold sores.
  • Chemical peels are usually ideal for people with fair skin. Those with dark skin are likely to have an uneven skin tone after the treatment.
  • Avoid waxing, scrubbing, bleaching and massages a week before the procedure and stop using retinol/retinoids for 48 hours prior.

During

  • Your doctor will clean your face and cover your eyes and hair.
  • For a medium peel, your doctor may put you on a sedative. For deep peel, you will be given local anesthesia. There is no need for painkillers for a light peel.
  • A peeling solution is applied on the area for the set amount of time followed by a neutralizing solution.
  • You may experience a burning sensation for 5-10 minutes while the procedure is on. Ice compress and pain medications are prescribed to ease your pain.

After

  • After a chemical peel, your skin is more prone to sun damage. It is crucial to protect your skin with a broad spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or above. Limit your exposure to sun when the sun’s rays are at their strongest.
  • After the treatment, you may notice redness and scaling for about 3-7 days.

7. Benefits Of Chemical Peel

You’ll be surprised to know that chemical peels are more than just skin exfoliators. Besides removing dead skin cells, chemical peels can also reduce fine lines around the eyes and mouth and address wrinkles caused by sun damage. The procedure fades away acne scars, age spots, freckles, dark patches, melasma and dark spots as well.

8. Chemical Peel’s Side Effects

  • There can be a temporary or permanent change in skin color in some people after a chemical peel. It is most common in women who are on birth control pills and subsequently become pregnant. Also, people with a history of facial discoloration may face this issue.
  • In some people, a chemical peel can trigger an infection like herpes, a virus that’s responsible for cold sores.
  • A deep chemical peel using phenol may cause damage to the heart, liver and kidney.
  • Scarring is another side effect of chemical peel which can last a lifetime.

9. Can We Do Chemical Peel At Home?

Though at-home facial peels are available in the market with ingredients in milder strength like TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid), glycolic acid, beta hydroxy acid and mandelic acid, Dr. Harish advises against it.

“Chemical peels should not be done at home because they require professional dermatological experience and specific directions from the doctor that need to be followed strictly before and after the session,” he explains.

Word Of Caution:

Performing chemical peels at home without a doctor’s supervision or precautions can cause skin burns, scars and discoloration.

10. How To Do Chemical Peel At Home?

  • Do a patch test before starting out.
  • Leave on the peel for 30 seconds at first and keep increasing 30 seconds of time in the consecutive weeks.
  • Use a good moisturizer and sunscreen in the after care.

11. What Age Is Good For A Chemical Peel?

You can start chemical peels in your 20s. Dr. Harish believes that using chemical peels in 20s and 30s can keep your skin healthy and fresh during the later years as well.

Chemical peels are not just for your aging skin. Anyone with acne too can find respite in chemical peels. Chemical peels aid in skin exfoliation and encourage cell turnover. They reduce sebum production, unclog pores and fade away blackheads.

12. Can I Have A Chemical Peel After Microdermabrasion?

You can have a chemical peel done after microdermabrasion for clearer skin. Microdermabrasion involves the use of a hand held device that exfoliates the top layer of the skin. A combination of these treatments is good in case you have oily and acne prone skin.

13.What Is The Difference Between A Facial And A Chemical Peel?

Facial Chemical Peel
Reduces skin damage from pollution, strengthens skin’s natural barrier and improves cell reproduction. Smoothes skin, repairs sun damages, wrinkles, acne and scares.
Uses creams, serums, scrubs and blackhead extractors. Uses a chemical peeling agents to strip off the top layers of the skin.
There is hardly any recovery time. Recovery time varies from a few days to a few weeks based on the depth of the peel.
No side effects usually. Can have some side effects in some people.
Results can be seen after regular facials over a period of time. Results are almost immediate. You can see brighter and smoother skin right from the first treatment.

14. How Long Does It Take For Your Skin To Peel After A Chemical Peel?

You can see your skin peel 48-72 hours after the treatment. This peeling can last for 2-5 days. Try not to pick at your skin and use a good moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated.

Chemical peels are an effective treatment for a lot of skin concerns. Bear in mind to be consistent with sunscreen usage in order to not reverse the benefits.

In A Nutshell

  • Your dermatologist or trained skin care specialist applies a chemical peel using chemical agents like salicylic acid, glycolic acid and lactic acid to exfoliate the layers of the skin, followed by a neutralizing solution.
  • Expect a burning sensation during the treatment.
  • Protecting the skin using sunscreen is mandatory after a chemical peel treatment.
  • Scarring, herpes infection, skin color change are possible side effects.
  • Some mild chemical peels can be performed at home as well.
  • You can start chemical peels from 20 years of age.
  • The results of chemical peel are faster as compared to a facial.
  • Skin starts peeling 48-72 hours after a chemical peel treatment.